Saturday, October 19, 2013

St. Paul's Cathedral

You would think I would be better about blogging as I don’t have any real commitments here, but for some reason, I have been struggling with it lately. Not that we haven’t been doing fun things, but every time I sit down to write about them, I just end up staring at a blank document or taking numerous Pinterest breaks. This means that I have about a month’s worth of activities to write about.

Here’s one of them.

St. Paul's Cathedral
 One day while my dad was visiting, Adrian took the day off work and we decided to climb the dome of St. Paul’s Cathedral. Lucky for us, the cathedral is less than a mile away from our flat, so we didn’t have far to walk before the climb.

From the cathedral's website
We started up the wide, stone staircase to the Whispering Gallery. Looking back, this was definitely the easiest part of the climb as the steps were shallow and there was enough room for people to walk up and down.  Roughly 250 steps later, we reached the Whispering Gallery.

Photos are not allowed in the cathedral, so all interior photos come from St. Paul's website.
The Whispering Gallery is a kind of a balcony that wraps around inside of the cathedral’s dome. Because you are in the dome, you can look straight down at the floor and not see the walls holding you up. I thought it was really cool and Dad and I spent a long time looking down at the checkerboard marble floor. Adrian was a little less enthusiastic and after a short period of time, went to sit on the benches that lined the walls. When Dad and I joined him, I realized why it was called the Whispering Gallery. Because of the shape of the dome, it is possible to sit on one side of it and carry on a conversation with someone on the opposite side simply by speaking in a normal voice with your face against the wall. I of course found this fascinating and went to various points around the gallery to test it. Adrian and Dad were over a hundred feet away, but I could still hear them as clearly as if they had been sitting right next to me! It was super cool!

We eventually left the Whispering Gallery and started on the truly difficult climb to the next level – the Stone Gallery. Although it was only about 125 steps up, it was much more difficult than the climb to the Whispering Gallery.  Whereas the first climb had wide, shallow steps, the second climb was the complete opposite. The stairwell was only wide enough for one person and each stone step felt as though it was a mile high! They had obviously not been designed for someone of my diminutive height. It was as if someone had taken a normal staircase and smooshed it sideways and then stretched it tall – the steps were barely large enough for a foot and so tall that I felt like I was in marching band again! I swear I could have sat down on one and dangled my feet! It was at this point that I began cursing my love of greasy takeaway and my hatred of exercise.


Finally, we reached the Stone Gallery. Unlike the Whispering Gallery, this balcony is on the outside of the dome and overlooks all of London. It was incredible to see the city from such a different point of view – to recognize landmarks that I had only ever seen from the ground and get a new sense of how they all fit together to form the city. I tried taking some panoramic shots with Adrian’s camera, but only succeeded in switching on the blue filter (not sure how that happened), so unfortunately most of my photos of the skyline are blue. Dad managed to get a lot of photos with his camera, so there are pictures without the blue haze, but they are not in my possession.

See those three towers in the center? Our flat is right next to those!

After taking in the city, we continued up to the highest level of the dome – the Golden Gallery. Luckily, the passageway up was built in the space between the inside and the outside of the dome itself, the climb was not as grueling. Instead of tiny, steep staircases, there were multiple spiral staircases with railings and landings, which made for a much easier climb. Right before we reached the gallery, we entered a small, round room with a glass hole in the floor that looks down at the cathedral floor. It was a small window at the absolute center of the entire dome. Oh my goodness! Of course I knew that I was high up, but for some reason, I never feel like you get the true scale of just how high you are when you are on a balcony outside. But this hole in the floor put it all in perspective. I was fascinated, but many other people climbing the dome (including Adrian and Dad) looked down briefly and, because of the height, had to walk away.

So high up!! Photo from this website.
The Golden Gallery was another outside balcony, but much smaller than the one below. Again, the views of the city from that height were amazing and totally worth the 528 steps!


After descending the hundreds of stairs to the cathedral floor (a much easier task than the ascent), we walked around the ground floor. It was huge! The ceilings were enormously tall and covered with intricate and colorful mosaic work. There were choirs of angels, beasts from the Garden of Eden, and images of Jesus surrounded by a golden halo. It was absolutely beautiful.
Looking up at the dome
Closer look at some of the mosaics
Maybe I am a morbid person, but the thing I found most interesting were the many memorials dedicated to those who died in the World Wars. There were plaques for British, American, and Allied soldiers, former parishioners who fought and died, and people who died during the Blitz. It was something I have never experienced before in a church, especially not one in the States. I have always been interested in the memorialization of wars and their impact on culture, so to see so many monuments dedicated to the wars was truly fascinating.

Looking toward the altar
After walking around the massive ground floor of the cathedral, we went down another flight of stairs into the crypt. We saw many national heroes of Britain buried there, including Lord Nelson, the Duke of Wellington, and Christopher Wren (the scientist and architect who designed the cathedral). It was very interesting, but we didn’t get to stay long, as there was a wedding scheduled and we had to leave.

All in all, it was an amazing day in an absolutely fantastic cathedral and I am so glad that Adrian, Dad, and I were able to experience it together. 

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