Friday, November 4, 2016

The East

Whenever I picture the East Germany of the past, I imagine oppressive, cement buildings, stern women in grey dresses and sturdy shoes carrying grocery bags through drab streets, and mile after mile of concrete. I imagine a world of greys and olive greens, a world defined by its starkness and lack of emotion and beauty. Perhaps I have watched too many movies or read too many books that feature the East as a cold, unforgiving place.

Which is probably why I am so astounded when I encounter a space in the former East that completely contradicts my own personal images. Yes, there are some places that still feel oppressively Soviet (like the Stasi Headquarters, which has been preserved as a museum), but there are many lovely places on the Eastern side of the wall.

Take, for instance, Tierpark Berlin. Located in the former East, it is one of the two zoos in Berlin. When we went, I was expecting a sad little zoo with concrete cages roughly the size of my living room housing a few anemic tigers pacing back and forth. I was happily surprised. Walking through Tierpark feels remarkably like walking through a city park. There are winding paths lined with enormous trees, children ride past on bikes, and people are strolling with their dogs, as if they are out on a quick lunch break and just ran home to let Fido out. There was even a cemetery in the middle of the zoo!

It is the family graveyard of the aristocrats that used to own the land that is now the zoo.
Hello cows!
These were just a couple of the multiple varieties of cow at the zoo.
Fledermรคuse
We always have to see the penguins.
I can't help but love him!
Their camel pen alone was probably the size of a small city park!
Another place that completely shattered my image of the East was Treptower Park. Literally right across the river from us, Treptower Park borders the Spree for several miles and features rose gardens, fields, a giant Soviet memorial, a couple biergartens, and an island!

The bridge to the island.
Of course we made boats to float in the Spree.
Mine was not as pretty (or complex), but was much more seaworthy.
One of the best parts about Treptower Park is the abandoned theme park. It's somehow so strange to me, imagining the East, a place that people constantly tried to escape, as having such an amenity. Even West Berlin didn't have a theme park!

Sign inside the fence.
Creepy Ferris wheel and some of the track from the train ride.
One of the stations for the train ride.
The park officially closed in 2002, and has sat on the grounds, slowly decaying ever since. It's mildly unsettling, walking next to the fence keeping the theme park separate from the city park, and hearing the metal creak of the empty Ferris wheel as it moves with the breeze. I am looking into tours; hopefully we will be able to explore the park without having to break any laws!

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